We're about to go out to our favorite creperie for dinner, so this will be brief. Today we returned to Montmartre, and I was wrong; there's
still a seamy side--we just didn't walk far enough down the boulevard de Clichy. We spent a short but fruitful time in lower Montmartre, first paying our respects to François Truffaut at the Montmartre Cemetery, then touring La Musée de la Vie Romantique (artist Ary Scheffer's former home, which showcases George Sand memorabilia and now has a show in honor of the 200th anniversary of Chopin's birth) where we had lunch in its flower-filled garden, a world away from the strip clubs and sex-toy shops a few blocks over.
The museum, where we learned about the origin of the "blue note" (George Sand and Delacroix used it to describe the magical relationship between color and sound) and saw a plaster cast of Chopin's right hand:
The garden where French ladies come to meet their friends and eat salad:
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