Sunday, May 23, 2010

Posh Digs

Our dear landlords, Claude and Lucile, recently returned from a two-week trip to Turkey and wanted to get to know us a little better, so they invited us for tea and macaroons yesterday afternoon. Before the tea was served, however, they gave us a visite guidée of their apartment, which is one floor below ours. Their apartment is surprisingly small by American standards--about 1,000 square feet--but sits in the most expensive real estate area in all of France. The land on which it stands was purchased from the Catholic church in 1796; the Church was forced to pay taxes after the revolution and therefore had to sell many of its land holdings. A single-story dwelling was built by twenty-six families--including Claude's great-great-great-great grandfather, a baker--who planned to pool their money to add more stories in the future. Apparently that was easier said than done; only six of the original families were able to proceed. By 1806, each remaining family was struggling to afford the taxes and all were ordered by the court to put it up for auction. In those days, the method of auctioning required bids to be made as two candles were burning, and no bids were allowed after the second candle went out. By sheer luck, Claude's ancestor was the last and highest bidder, and the building was given to him. More floors were added over the next twenty years (the bakery must have prospered), reaching a final height of six stories. The floor in Claude's apartment dates back to the 1820s and is similar in style to the flooring at Versailles. Our apartment isn't nearly as elegant, but at least we can boast that we've got the swankiest address in France!

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